3d Printing

Discussion in 'DIY Lounge' started by Dustin B, Apr 19, 2015.

  1. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    So if you remember I built a Paulk Workbench last year.


    One issue with it is I can just connect the table saws dust collection when the saw is at 90 and can't at any angle less than 90. Had been planning to modify it so the dust port came out the bottom. I had planned to rig something up using a Lee Valley 2.5" dust port (A). When I went to try and do that a few weeks ago I couldn't figure out a good way to make it happen. At that point I decided to see if I could find someone to 3d print me a part I'd model. After some digging ended up joining a local maker space (side note, that maker space was the birth place if the Peachy Printer) that gave me access to a Makerbot Replicator 2. Could only print PLA on this printer, would have preferred to be able to do a nylon impregnated plastic, but I spent the 8 hours it took to print there yesterday until 1am getting my part printed.


    Pretty happy with how it turned out, shop vac hose fits in it nicely. Just need to notch out some of the cast aluminium on my table saw and drill some holes to mount it now.

    Result is I've been bitten by the bug and even though I won't use it a lot, I think I'll use it enough and get enough enjoyment/utility out of when I do use it that I'll be buying a DIY 3d printer kit by the latest March of next year and possibly later this summer early in the fall. Was thinking of a Rostock Max V2 but I'm now leaning towards a Makerfarm i3v 12".
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 19, 2015
  2. Brian Bunge

    Brian Bunge Active Member War Zone Member

    That's pretty cool! Would that material be suitable for a one piece midrange/tweeter faceplate? Years ago I wanted to make one for the Dayton RS 2" dome midrange and 1" tweeter to get a smaller CTC spacing.
  3. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    They still print with pretty obvious striations from the layering. I didn't care for this part so set the layer height as large as I could to speed up the print. PLA doesn't sand very well so it would be tricky to smooth it out after it was printed.

    ABS sands well and can be smoothed with acetone vapor treatment or by sponging with acetone. You can also acetone weld parts together. It requires a heated bed to print though and environmental issues can cause it to warp and separate while printing. If you get a clean print from it though I think it could work well for this.

    It's going to be mostly a hobbyist thing outside of industry for quite a while yet. But eventually I'd predict 3d printers will become a common appliance and the possibilities it will open up to product designers for providing customizable products or fixing broken items will be amazing. And how low it will set the bar for entrepreneurs getting a product out there will be liberating.
  4. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    Oh and I designed that part in SketchUp using a plugin called curviloft to do the rectangle to circle transition. Then I added two more plugins. One that will tell you if a model is a solid which is required to be true for the second one which exports parts as stl files to work. Pretty much every printer out there takes stl files. Well at least their software does. It analyses the stl file and splits it into layers in a format that the printer can use.
  5. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

  6. Randy Rhoton

    Randy Rhoton Well-Known Member Donor War Zone Member

    Now that's just flat out cool!
  7. Rick C

    Rick C Active Member

    Nice job!
  8. JeffC

    JeffC Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    Very nice. I've always wanted to print out the "Death Proof Duck". Probably has a copyright though...

  9. DYohn

    DYohn Well-Known Member Donor

    You can minimize that by increasing the printer's resolution, but obviously there are limitations.
  10. Phil Rose

    Phil Rose Member

    Something for you 3D printing buffs...
    GE announces first FAA approved 3D-printed engine part (19 April, 2015) GE has announced the first 3D-printed part certified by the US Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) for a commercial jet engine. The fist-sized T25 housing for a compressor inlet temperature sensor was fabricated by GE Aviation and will be retrofitted to over 400 GE90-94B jet engines on Boeing 777 aircraft.
  11. DYohn

    DYohn Well-Known Member Donor

    We have two large 3D printers in my CA office that we use all the time to make molds for rubber to insulate pipes, valves, etc. One uses ABS and the other an acrylic plastic. My company owns the largest 3D printing lab in the world in Singapore. They can print in aluminum, steel, bronze or copper, and one can print up to six feet square. The machines in my office cost about $300K each, I have no idea what the large metal stereo-lithography systems must have cost...
  12. Phil Rose

    Phil Rose Member

    Binford 840? I would love to see those machines! They must be quite something in action!
  13. DYohn

    DYohn Well-Known Member Donor

    Not sure, I can ask. The two in our office are by Fortus.
  14. Phil Rose

    Phil Rose Member

    Sorry, that was an homage to Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor. :wink:
  15. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    On the opposite side of the spectrum is the Peachy Printer I linked to above. $100 3d stereo lithography printer. The guy showed up at the maker space with an early prototype that had stuff hobbled together from house hold items mounted into a 2x4 chiselled out with a screwdriver. They thought he was nuts when he told them it was a 3d printer. $660K from kickstarter and a couple years later they are months away from starting to fulfill their pledges.

    His solution to getting the cost down is ingenious. Uses the left and right channel of a sound card to control the two mirrors that point the laser on the x and y axis. Then uses the microphone input to count the drips from a drip tube to control the z axis. No stepper motors, no robust extrusions and minimal electronics needed. Once the audio file is created can even control the thing from a smart phone. Will be interesting to see how well they can make it work over time. The guy has hopes of eventually using one to print a 16' canoe :p
  16. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    Makerfarm i3v 12" and a 1kg spool of PLA, ABS and PTEG filament ordered along with a solid state relay and heat sink to switch the heat bed to PID instead of a plain mechanical relay. I'll have to buy a small sheet of baltic birch to beef up some of the frame parts and once it's running first up will be printing some mod parts for some easy upgrades to it and then printing off some spare parts. Might rig up some sort of basic enclosure for it too eventually.
  17. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    Finally started building it last night. Hopefully sometime next week I'll have it functional and calibrated.

  18. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member


    Almost mechanically complete. Lots of little issues with this kit causing me to take some extra time to build in fixes for them. Although most of them won't get fixed until it's functional and I can print replacement parts. Upside is the build volume for the cost and that once you make all the tweaks it can print very well. And really, I'm going to have fun improving it.
  19. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    Well it looks like a printer. Mechanically complete. Will wire it up tonight and get the firmware installed but not sure if I'll fire it up or not until tomorrow as it will likely be pretty late by the time I get to that point.


    Found out two days ago that I was missing the part that mounts the hotend to the extruder. Luckily it was a pretty simple wooden part that was easy to make myself with a 1/2" router bit, router table and tablesaw :p
  20. Dustin B

    Dustin B Well-Known Member War Zone Member

    IMG_20160225_224512562.jpg IMG_20160225_224525438.jpg IMG_20160225_224542899.jpg

    Got the wiring finished tonight. The mounting plate I made out of 1/4" ply seems to be working well. First try with no changes using the builtin menus on the LCD controller I've verified all the steppers are working and moving in the right directions. All the end stops are working. Both thermistors give readings. The hot end fan runs and both the hotend and the heat bed will heat up.

    So tomorrow or saturday I'll fine tune the end stops and level the bed. Run the auto tune on the hotend and heatbed and verify the thermistors are reading in the right ball park. Get the extruder steps per mm configured (unless it's really off this will just be using the multipler from the slicer). Then print some test bars to verify x and y steps per mm. Then print benchy.

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